Poon Hill Nepal: The Most Dramatic Mountain Sunrise

Welcome to a Story Series: Annapurna Part 6. Over the last few months, I have been learning about story craft from ScriptStuff. Mike is an award-winning scriptwriter who tailored the sessions towards a travel blog to teach me the basics of storytelling. I decided to rewrite my Annapurna Circuit Trek Journals using my new skills in a 7-part series posted on the Bookshelf. The original Annapurna Circuit post was an ultimate guide to the Annapurna Circuit Trek. Then I expanded into three more detailed entries about my experiences (Annapurna Circuit, Thorong La Pass and Poon Hill Nepal). This Story will include the epic Poon Hill Nepal Sunrise and the end of the Annapurna Circuit after completing the Thorong La Pass in Part 5.

Part 6- Muktinath to Pokhara (Poon Hill Nepal)

Chapter 1- Muktinath

After sleeping at over 3500m the last 4 nights, the Oxygen felt heavy in comparison. I woke in my heavenly double bed feeling refreshed. The day ahead was a transfer day over to Tatopani, where the trek would continue towards Ghorepani, where we would visit Poon Hill, Nepal. Then, we would continue to the end of the Annapurna Circuit at Nayapul. Whilst some traditional longer itineraries continue from Muktinath down the valley past Jomson and onto Tatopani, I chose a shorter version. I was perfectly happy with the previous 8 days of trekking and passing the monstrous Thorong La Pass. But what I didn’t expect was a dramatic and nerve-wracking bus ride for 8 hours. 

Before we left, I packed up my backpack and went for a quick walk around town, as I knew I had a long journey sitting on a bus all day. The shops were open, and I was in the mood for a small gift to remember the spiritual place by. I scouted out various shops and found one that caught my eye with small Buddha statues made out of bone, apparently. I haggled for a nice, cheap price and rushed back for breakfast before we departed. 

Chapter 2- Jomson

We left the relatviely luxurious hotel comapred to Thorong Phedi. The Osprey Atmos felt almost empty as we bought tickets and packed the bags into the secure luggage compartment on the bus. Lessons were learnt and no missing carabiners this time! Everything started off simply with the bus making many stops to collect people and cargo for its journey. I was more than content in watching the mountains roll on by and give my legs a day’s rest. We weaved on moderately smooth roads to Jomson for a break. Some trekking itineraires even fly from Jomson to Pokhara. However, this means skipping the must-see Poon Hill, Nepal! As I stepped off the bus, I was amazed at seeing Dhaulaigiri with its enormous, unclimbable north face. The road decided to keep things interesting with some gravel sections and windy parts as it followed the Kali Gandaki River. 

Chapter 3- Bus journey from Hell

The road turned southwards and we paused for lunch near Kalopani. This lunch was where Dawa’s expertise came into its own, whilst everyone else scrambled to the closest restaurant. We walked literally 200m extra to a quieter restaurant. The Dal Bhat was delicious with a wide variety of elements. Dawa mentioned he had tried the other busier one but was disappointed with the Dal Bhat. Back on the bus, the valley narrowed even more as the road ran high above the river below. The large coach was now tiptoing along the cliff edge with a deadly drop on my side of the bus. I was starting to feel anxious about this bus ride to Tatopani. Dawa assured me this was normal, but as he said that, another bus approached from the opposite direction. No way 2 buses were going to fit.

Thankfully, the other driver reversed back to a safe passing point. Our bus crept along the road, avoiding pot holes and squeezing between a rock face and a drop into the gorge. We reached a blind corner when the driver stopped, and several men rushed out. I looked forward to seeing them move rocks in front of the tyres to make the road wide enough. Slowly, we edged forward. The bus began to roll to the side as the weight pushed the rocks away towards the waters below. I was sure this was it. The bus moved along on a tilt until all 4 wheels were on the same level and we had passed the pinch point. My heart was pounding, and I just wanted to be off this dangerous bus. After another hour of trechery, we reached Tatopani and I quickly jumped off the bus.

Chapter 4- Tatopani Hot Springs

I was happy to collect my Osprey Atmos and walk into town with Dawa to the teahouse for the night. The room for the evening was a tiny box room. Yet I was glad to have the privacy to myself and space to relax. In the village, there are some natural hot springs, so Dawa and I strolled down towards the river, paid the entrance fee and got changed. The Hot springs were exactly what my body yearned for after the previous week’s trekking. The heat soaked through my sore muscles, and I felt a sense of bliss. There was a mix of tourists from all countries there, along with many locals, too. We must have spent an hour or 2 there, in the presence of the mountains above and feeling replenished from the natural waters.

We returned to the teahouse at a leisurely pace. The town did not feel touristy, with fewer shops and not many trekkers. Instead, there were more motorbikes and cycling tour groups. It was a strange feeling to have gone from the social connections with my fellow trekkers along the Manang valley to now feeling more alone. The motorbikers couldn’t understand or appreciate the physical and mental challenge of tackling Thorong La Pass. And it felt like this pattern would continue the next few days as we saw fewer trekkers along the Annapurna Circuit. The saving grace was that I had time to reflect and write my beloved travel journal. And the biggest surprise came from dinner. Out of all my Dal Bhat Power Rankings, the Tatopani teahouse scored highest thanks to its yoghurt and chutney additions. My body was fuelled and recharged for another day’s trekking again tomorrow.

Chapter 5- Ghorepani Climb

I awoke early and raring to go trekking again. On the other hand, I wasn’t aware of the 1800m of climbing from Tatopani to Ghorepani on the cards. We started with an easy few km out of town along the river and crossing a large suspension bridge. To my surprise, I noticed a potent leafy plant everywhere in this more tropical climate. It turns out that Marijuana grows naturally in Nepal and was legal. The smell was strong as we passed by the plants before a terrifying staircase up several hundred metres loomed in front. I focused on the zig-zags as we climbed to the top and enjoyed the view back along the valley. We had entered the rice fields, which were an unusual change from the jungle, forests and alpine terrains on the other side of the Annapurna massif.

The path wound between the crop fields and towards the higher settlements. Finally, we reached Hotel Arpan, where I savoured another Dal Bhat lunch on a panoramic rooftop. The sun was hot and high in the sky, and I needed a rest. We had much more elevation to climb, but first lunch. The trail onwards was a constant slog up a rocky, uneven path. My backpack felt like a burden; however, at least I had built up my strength and trekking fitness. Even though this was the most ascent over the Circuit, I was confident we could get to Ghorepani after being so fast at the high altitudes of Thorong La Pass. There wasn’t even any altitude sickness to worry about as we stood less than 3000m. After a couple of hours of head-down hiking, we reached the Ghorepani entrance sign and used the last energy to reach the town. 

Chapter 6- Ghorepani Town

The Sunny Hotel was our accommodation, being one of the largest hotels in town with many large groups staying. I had a twin room to myself where I could stretch out my kit. Once again, I didn’t recognise anyone in the dining hall or restaurant, but did get chatting to a few backpackers checking in whilst I read. They seemed impressed, that I had already done the Annapurna Circuit. It didn’t feel the same meeting new backpacker’s comapred to in the Manang Valley. There wasn’t the same challenge or relatebaility with these new people on different itineraries. What I hadn’t realised was that Ghorepani was a junction for multiple treks. The Poon Hill Trek and Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek also travelled through the town, so there were many trekkers on different itineraries. The main common ground was the desire to see the sunrise from Poon Hill.

I ventured into town to explore the various shops and picked up some small souvenirs, such as a map of Annapurna and a postcard. I was less concerned with pack weight as I only had a day left to carry it all.

Chapter 7- Poon Hill, Nepal Hike

The alarm rang at 4:30 in the cold room. I crawled out of the sleeping bag and immediately into the clothes laid out. My Osprey UL Stuff Sack was packed with water, clothes, poles and my headtorch (very much needed). I wasn’t worried about the climb but more about getting there for a good time and hoping the weather would be clear. Ghorepani was alive at the early hours as most travellers were keen to see the famous sunrise at Poon Hill, Nepal. We quickly raced ahead of several larger groups and hit the trails out of town. Our head torches lit the way up the path to the checkpoint where Dawa bought our tickets. I felt light as a feather with the small backpack on compared to the trekking backpack. Most people took an hour to do the 335m climb to Poon Hill, Nepal. Yet Dawa and I proved our speed by arriving in 35 minutes. We overtook some people on the last corner and were the first people to arrive. Dawn was breaking over the horizon, and I climbed the tower to bag my prime spot. 

Chapter 8 – Poon Hill Nepal Sunrise

The temperature was cold as I patiently waited for the stars to disappear and the first light to hit at almost 6am. The Tower got full quickly, and people mingled down below on the platforms. I was very glad for my Rab Alpine Microlight Jacket to keep me warm whilst I stood still. The first light hit Dhaulaigri seen to the West. A mammoth mountain rising above all the nearby mountains. But the main event was seeing Annapurna, Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre (Sacred Mountain) in front of us. The golden light hit the snow-capped summits, and the clicks (or tapping) of cameras went off. As the sunrise progressed, I descended the tower to enjoy the beautiful moment with Dawa and thank him for his help.

We had some warm chai tea to thaw the insides and took many lovely photos together with the epic backdrop. The sunrise hike to Poon Hill, Nepal, may not have been taxing. But I was so joyful at witnessing the simple beauty. And after a few days of relative isolation, it was a nice moment at the end of the trip. It was now daylight, so we bombed down the mountain back to the hotel, where I packed my backpack and ate breakfast. I would need it for the last day of trekking on the Annapurna Circuit. 

Chapter 9- End of the Annapurna Circuit

For the final time, we set off from the teahouse in Ghorepani and hit the trails. Immediately, we walked through the dense forest and lost the elevation we had gained the previous day. After the gruelling climb yesterday, we would now have over 2000m of descending to Nayapul, the end of the trek. Despite my backpack being the lightest, it was still over 12kg to carry for many hours. The first part was peaceful as we walked through the trees and chatted about other future treks. We passed streams and waterfalls before we hit the staircase. Whilst it was sore on the knees, in the opposite direction, many ABC trekkers were slowly climbing the steps towards Ghorepani. Whilst we didn’t see many Circuit trekkers, there were many others on the path, which became annoying as we constantly had to fight through crowds.

The amazing views of Machapuchare were now hidden behind clouds. I was now ready to finish the trek and get to Pokhara. We arrived at a relaxing teahouse overlooking crop fields on the mountain slopes. Once again, I was impressed with the Dal Bhat, and it proved that the lower settlements had more complex flavours and ingredients available. We were in the last push along the valley towards the finish. My feet and knees were now shattered from the huge amount of descent we had undertaken. We arrived at Birenthani at the last of the Annapurna Circuit checkpoints before Nayapul. We were about to cross the bridge when Dawa announced we had completed the trek! I was shocked and took off my backpack. It was slightly anticlimactic, to be honest. However, I took some photos and was ready to jump into a taxi waiting to take us to Pokhara.

Chapter 10- Pokhara

I don’t remember the taxi ride to Pokhara as I quickly fell asleep on the smooth motorway. We arrived at Hotel Guru in Lakeside, where we checked into the nice 3* hotel. I was rewarded with a huge room with double beds, an en-suite bathroom and a balcony, a vast upgrade to the Circuit hotels and teahouses. Dawa and I reconvened in the lobby, then went to explore the lake and streets. The lake was hazy, and the distant Annapurna range was hidden, but I wasn’t too bothered after seeing the Poon Hill sunrise that very morning. No wonder I was so tired from the very early wake-up, then the long 20km descent to Birethani. The lakeside walk was very busy with music and performers everywhere. I asked Dawa if he could advise me on some Nepalese souvenirs to buy now that we had finished the trek.

Chapter 11- Souvenir Time

There is a vast range of Pokhara shops for souvenirs and gifts. First, I was in the hunt for some quality Pashmina Shawls for my girlfriend, mum and sister. Now that I was off the trek, I could practise some bargaining to get the best patterns and deals. I was very satisfied with the purchases and used Dawa to advise on whether I was being ripped off. Next, I was inspired by the Buddhist influence, so I wanted to buy a small singing bowl for myself. We found the very popular Himalayan Singing Bowl and trading shop, where I had a small budget and packing space. However, after carefully searching nd learning about the different grades, I found a small singing bowl with a beautiful sound that resonated with me. I asked about the price, but it was too high for me from the owner.

So, I waited and looked around for a cheaper version, but in the end asked another employee who agreed to a lower price just for me. Finally, I was delighted with my purchases so far, and next picked up a small Annapurna panoramic photographic poster to start a collage once home. I had already picked up a small Buddha statue in Muktinath and some prayer flags in Manang for good luck (plus they weighed nothing). Plus, I knew there would be more opportunities in Kathmandu to use up my remaining rupees, as it was a closed currency, so I couldn’t exchange them in the UK. 

Chapter 12 – Street Dancing

Before going for dinner, we watched multiple talented street dancing companies perform break dancing and traditional dance in front of large crowds. I was happy to soak up the atmosphere and watch with Dawa on the main street. Eventually, we left to pick up a quick dal bhat dinner (nothing to write about) before returning to the Hotel before dark. I felt safe around Pokhara with Dawa, but I’m not sure if I would have been alone. I was more than prepared to sleep as we had completed the Annapurna Circuit after 12 days of trekking. Surprisingly, my body felt fit, and I definitely could have stayed for another Nepal trek if money and work weren’t factors. I had started the journey, stepping into the unknown and taking a leap of faith.

In 2 weeks of solo travelling, I had found my self-confidence and extroverted energy as well as pushed my mental and physical boundaries to new limits. As I sat in my hotel room by mysel, I was finding a new comfort in my solitude. Part of solo travelling is the ability to feel good for long periods by yourself. And the downtime away from Dawa and other travellers was beneficial in teaching me to quieten my mind and get clarity. I was in awe of the stunning Annapurna mountains, and my perspective on how insignificant we are and our problems had been hugely shifted. I would return home with a new open-mindedness and calm presence that not many people would understand. But before sharing my journeys after being alone and offline in the high altitude mountains, we had another day of long travel from Pokhara to Kathmandu to deal with.

Afterword

Stay tuned for Part 7 of the Annapurna Circuit Trek, which continues the journey after Poon Hill, Nepal and Pokhara to Kathmandu for the end of the journey. Please comment if you are enjoying the series, and keep an eye out for tips and hidden links between the posts.