Welcome to a Story Series: Annapurna Part 3. Over the last few months, I have been learning about story craft from ScriptStuff. Mike is an award-winning scriptwriter who tailored the sessions towards a travel blog to teach me the basics of storytelling. I decided to rewrite my Annapurna Circuit Trek Journals using my new skills in a 7-part series posted on the Bookshelf. The original Annapurna Circuit post was an ultimate guide to the Annapurna Circuit Trek. Then I expanded into three more detailed entries about my experiences (Annapurna Circuit, Thorong La Pass and Poon Hill). This Story will take us from Chame (2650m) up to Manang (3500m) over two of my favourite trekking days.
Part 3- Chame to Manang
Chapter 1 – Chame
Sunlight woke me naturally in the cold wooden chalet. I crawled out of the sleeping bag to see the mountains through the window, welcoming me to Trekking Day 3. I felt a slight sense of homesickness after talking about home with Harry & Amelia the previous night. Nevertheless, I was happy to have met some new friends, and it showed how like-minded other trekkers were. The next challenge was to hike 2 days up to Manang for a rest and acclimatisation day. Every mile long the trek, the air grew thinner and the trails more rugged. We would be leaving the jungle climate behind and heading up to arid, higher-altitude Manang. The next days would have a much higher risk of altitude sickness and injury than the simpler start.
Chapter 2- Doughnuts
The trekking routine was becoming second nature to pack up the backpack, eat a large breakfast then hit the trails early. Generally, the mornings were cooler with clear skies, which made for ideal hiking conditions before the trails got busier later on. Immediately after Chame, the terrain changed from jungle to alpine forests. A nice surprise that gave me nostalgia for hiking in Chamonix as a boy. We entered thick forests and trekked for hours as the valley narrowed. I was starting to get the hang of backpacking after a few nights in the teahouses. The equipment was working fantastically, and each day seemed simple and fulfilling. I was quickly learning that the appeal of trekking was the mix of enduring the physical challenge through incredible scenery and the simplicity of it. Carrying your possessions and travelling long distances on foot gave an intrinsic reward of independence and accomplishment.
A pleasant surprise came as we trekked through an apple orchard. I had no idea it was possible to grow apples at 3000m! We stopped at the modern cafe, where the mountains must have acted like magic, as I tasted the best apple doughnut ever! Dawa stocked up on apples for later in the trek for us. I was beginning to appreciate Dawa’s strength, navigation and negotiation skills to find the best bed and food. After the break, the path transformed into a narrow track carved out of a mountain with a sheer cliff to the raging torrents below. It was time to be especially careful on this sector; however, cycling groups were trying to squeeze past on the inside. This pushed us dangerously close to the edge. We continued for what felt like a mile, hoping not to see the headlights of a truck coming the other way.
Chapter 3 – Upper Pisang
Finally, we were safe and climbing through a forest trail again. I had failed to notice that behind us was Annapurna 2. The great mountain is a backdrop for much of the Circuit and a fantastic photo opportunity. We had to cross the Marsyangdi River and were catching several large trekking groups. The crossing was a Tibetan suspension bridge, which swayed in the wind as it hung high above the waters. Annoyingly, we were at the back of a slow-moving queue over the bridge. With multiple people on before us, we tried to wait. Another group was fast approaching, so we had to slowly walk over. The bridge creaked and moved under each footstep. Keeping balance was difficult, and it was not safe to take pictures! We made it safely across, and I would quickly learn to trust these well-trodden crossings over the Circuit.
The trek turned a corner as Heaven’s Gate (Paungda Danda) smoothly rose from the valley. This striking landmass seemed so opposite to the jagged peaks seen so far. Dawa explained that it is forbidden to climb because it would offend local spirits. The mystic presence of the mountain could be felt as we hiked on Upper Pisang. The great Annapurna massif, with multiple Annapurna peaks, towered to the south and Pisang Peak to the north. The valley flattened out as we walked past a floodplain. The waters engulfed several football pitches. But this didn’t stop a group of children from trying to kick a ball around. I pointed this out to Dawa, and we both laughed at the scene. A final kicker of ascent took us to Upper Pisang for the night. And once again, Dawa got us rooms at a prime spot with incredible views of Annapurna 2.
Chapter 4 – Temple
After settling into my room, I was treated with a steaming hot shower to remove the accumulated dust. Dawa and I went off to explore the small village of Upper Pisang, which was built on a cliff with spectacular views across the valley of the Annapurnas. The climbing was not done yet, as I dragged myself to the top of the hill, thankful for no backpack for once. Day 3’s reward was seeing the Buddhist Temple, which offered the best view of the Annapurna Massif. It was surprisingly busy at the Temple with people outside taking in the sun. Dawa and I went inside to appreciate the fine decorations and vibrant colours. We lit a candle and made an offering in prayer for safe passage over Thorong La Pass. At first, I was unsure if I truly believed it, but I was open to embracing the local traditions.
We returned to the Teahouse when Dawa spotted a local trader nearby. What I witnessed was a feisty and fast bartering over precious metals and jewellery. I was interested in the small Buddha statues, but was conscious of the extra weight; it all adds up! I set up camp in the food hall near the fire as the temperature was dropping fast and the room was filling up with groups. Engrossed in my journaling, I almost didn’t realise 2 female trekkers were looking for a seat in front of me. I invited them to join, which they gratefully accepted, and they introduced themselves as Sophie and Marlein from the Netherlands. For such a flat country, I was shocked by how many Dutch loved the high mountains!
Chapter 5- Stargazing
Dawa and their guide, AJ, joined us for food and card games. It turned out that card games are internationally loved and a great way to make friends, unless you keep on winning. The food hall emptied as the night rolled on, so we moved closer to the fire as we exchanged our Circuit experiences. As bedtime approached, we were blessed with a crystal clear night, so we scrambled to the rooftop terrace. The stars were in the thousands as we gazed in complete awe at the galaxies visible. A vast improvement to the hazy London night skies at home! What surprised me was how easy chatting to other trekkers was. Especially to the younger backpackers who were more relatable, compared to the larger 10+ sized groups of elder hikers. I was making new trekking friendships and was gaining extroverted energy and social confidence that I had lost.
Chapter 6- Ghyaru
Another clear blue-skied day welcomed us for the 4th day of trekking. For breakfast, instead of the trusted pancakes I was used to, I tried Tsampa (Barley Porridge) because of the strong Tibetan influence on the previous day. We left early as a steep obstacle awaited, followed by a long day to Manang, our town to acclimatise and rest. The backpack was feeling lighter each day as snacks and other stuff were used up, or maybe my body was getting stronger. We were transported back in time, passing through an ancient settlement with stone walls and wooden structures. The primitive buildings were a distraction from the zigzag hell that awaited us.
With the altitude heading to 3730m, it was even more important not to raise heart rates unnecessarily. The Ghyaru climb would help acclimatise better by pushing to higher elevations, then sleeping lower at Manang. The advice of Dawa was to take many breaks and breathe slowly. This is much easier said than done when hiking up a sharp 350m climb in 20°C heat, carrying a backpack still. I prepared for this mental test by pacing along a zig, break and continued up a zag, break, repeat. This was much tougher than the earlier climbs on Day 2, but I managed to reach the viewpoint of Ghyaru within the hour. I had overcome the physical and mental struggle, which only grew my trekking confidence.
Chapter 7 – Viewpoint
We dropped off the backpacks whilst sipping chai tea on a rooftop with an epic panoramic view in front. Somehow, the view had improved upon Upper Pisang with a higher vantage point and the whole of the Marshyangdi Valley seen below. I soaked up the views as Dawa took some half-candid pictures near the prayer wheels and viewing platform. I was in no rush to leave the picture postcard scene. The mix of incredible snow-covered mountains with the Buddhist influence was intoxicating. Dawa ushered me away, knowing how much further we had to trek, whilst I could have stayed all day. With renewed strength and my soul full, we were about to continue when familiar voices were heard below. The group of 3 Dutch girls had just entered the village. Looking rather exhausted and hot after the gruelling climb, we exchanged a quick hello before we started to Manang.
Chapter 8- Manang
The afternoon flew past as the narrow hiking path twisted along the mountainside to the highest vantage point. The legs were feeling good, and my pack was not as much of a burden as the previous days. I trekked in silence for an hour, no thoughts or rumination about life, I was present and content trekking on the Circuit. After all the climbing of the day, we had a rare descent into the arid climate with the dusty terrain and lack of greenery. The local airport strip was below, next to the dusty track which provided supplies to Manang. The trails were quiet as we approached the valley bottom again and passed by the ancient Bhraka, the stone structures set into the cliff face.
I remembered from my research several of the most iconic photos in the blogs to help prepare me. As we passed by Yaks on the side of the road, I recognised a bridge over the river. The view was of a suspension bridge before the great Annapurna peaks across the valley. Dawa took up his photography duties, with me posing badly. Manang was ahead, yet to enter, we would need to summon some energy for a final climb. We hauled ourselves up the last challenge before the rest day. After 4 days of trekking 73km and over 3816m of vertical climbing, we had arrived safely at Manang. I felt a small relief as we were over halfway to the main objective of Thorong La Pass. I was feeling OK with the altitude so far, and was thankful for no falls or injuries on the trail.
I was looking forward to having a day off without carrying the 50L Backpack. For the first time, I would sleep in the same bed for consecutive nights and could spread out more kit. However, Manang is a busy town with many packed Teahouses and hotels! Dawa’s first choice, Teahouse, was full, as were his second and third choices…. Where would we sleep tonight?
Afterword
Stay tuned for Part 4 of the Annapurna Himalaya Trek, which continues the journey from Manang to Thorong Phedi on the Circuit! Please comment if you are enjoying the series, and keep an eye out for tips and hidden links between the posts.
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