Annapurna Adventure: Preparing for the Trek of a Lifetime

Welcome to a Story Series: Annapurna. Over the last 3 months, I have taken multiple sessions on Story Craft by ScriptStuff. Mike is an award wining script writer and tailored the sessions for a travel blog to teach me the basics of the story telling. I have decided to rewrite my Annapurna Journals using my new skills over a 7 part series posted on the Book Shelf. The original Annapurna Circuit blog post was an ultimate guide into the Annapurna Circuit Trek. Then I expanded into 3 more detailed entries about my experience (Annapurna Circuit, Thorong La Pass and Poon Hill).

Part 1 – London to Kathmandu

Chapter 1 – Lake District

The rocks were wet and the shear drop either side would spell a problem if our footings went. My Dad and I were on the final push up one of England’s finest mountains, Helvellyn. The rain was sideways as we reached the summit and were engulfed by clouds. It was an enjoyable hike given the conditions but I wasn’t exactly challenged. I had just finished university and the world was gripped by the global pandemic. The adult world felt unfamiliar and daunting so I took some time in the mountains with my Dad which gave me a sense of calm and safety. I felt frustrated that precious years of my youth were being wasted. Even though part of me wanted to explore the world to make up for it, I was anxious about the dangers and couldn’t do it anyways because of the strict travel restrictions.

Chapter 2 – Nepal

It took a few years for normality to return and for international borders to fully reopen. Now a young man starting his career, I was eager to make up for missed travel post-university. Thankfully, my graduate job had allowed me to save enough to explore further afield. So the real question was, where should I visit? As I had never set foot outside of Europe, I was keen to fly to a new continent. Where better to start than the highest mountain range on Earth, the Himalayas? And whilst Everest is the most obvious choice to visit, I had recently seen videos of the overcrowding. A long queue of trekkers slowly walking in single file didn’t appeal to me. It sounded more like waiting to enter a concert than adventure.

It was fortunate timing that a work friend mentioned Annapurna in Nepal to me. I had never heard of Annapurna before that and didn’t know it was home to one of the deadliest mountains in the world! After researching Nepal, trekking and Annapurna late into the night, I was convinced that I had to trek the Annapurna Circuit. This is a 150km trek with over 9000m of climbing over 10 days. That is more ascent than Mount Everest! I would have to trek up to a maximum altitude of 5416m at Thorong La Pass which is extreme altitude. On top of this, I would get my taste for backpacking with all my gear with only a guide for support. It was an ultimate trek of mental and physical strength combined with dangerous terrain. During my research, I read about the 2014 Annapurna trekking season. A snowstorm and severe avalanches saw the death of 43 trekkers, sherpas and porters on the Circuit…. This trek was not to be underestimated!

Chapter 3 – Planning

Once the destination decision was made, the next planning phase begun. It turned out the logistics and booking would take over my spare time. But I obsessed with the dream of trekking in Nepal. The photos of the Annapurna mountains, the stories of Buddhist culture and reading trekking blogs only grew my anticipation. Most people I spoke to about the idea assumed I would be joining a group or going with friends. The truth is that I wanted a solo trip to push my comfort zone in an unknown region. It was a self-discovery journey along with high-altitude trekking. The preparation started by filtering out the numerous tour packages ranging from hundreds to multiple thousands in cost for various itineraries and luxuries. I was overwhelmed by the choice, like a kid in an outdoor shop.

Weeks of choosing, un-choosing, doubting and finally, I pulled the trigger. I selected a locally run tour for 2 weeks in November then booked surprisingly expensive flights with Qatar Airlines. After the booking phase, I moved onto collecting all the trekking equipment necessary. I had recently bought La Sportiva approach shoes and had good quality hiking gear, but I needed some serious upgrades to handle the harsh, high-altitude climates. I was inexperienced in backpacking, so I first needed a backpack to begin. As an Osprey fanboy, I couldn’t overlook the Atmos AG 50L backpack to carry my kit. In order to get good night’s rest after trekking long days, I bought a 4-season Rab down fill sleeping bag to cope with the freezing temperatures at altitude. I was happy that I didn’t have to think about cooking or camping equipment, thanks to the teahouse-style trek providing beds and meals as part of the tour. This easily saved me 5 kilos to carry over the Annapurna Circuit.

Chapter 4 – Training

Soon, I learnt that when compiling my packing list, weight was my nemesis. It was my first time trekking, and I was anxious about my backpack weight. I realised to acclimatise and comfortable carry my backpack, I needed to train to be fit and strong. So I began weekly hikes in the midlands and around town, carrying my Osprey backpack weighing almost 20kg. It’s safe to say I was getting odd looks from casual walkers out for a weekend stroll when they noticed me powering towards them. This weekly ritual seemed to be working, with each training hike getting easier. I did wonder on these lone hikes, was I in too deep? Should I have tested myself a little closer to home? Well, it was too late now to turn back. I had the flights booked and money spent already. The next stop was to fully commit to my Annapurna Adventure.

Over the months, I shaved off several Kilos of weight by using a minimalist approach with items that were versatile and good quality. No matter my fitness or pack weight, my main worry for the trek was the high altitude. Thorong La Pass is the world’s highest trekking pass at 5416m. At the top, there is 30% less oxygen than at sea level, and there is a high risk of altitude sickness. This sickness ranges from mild headaches to fatality. My only mitigation was to buy Diamox (medicine) and to follow the advice of my unknown Guide. I would be trusting navigation, accommodation, food and to a greater extent to a local guide… and not to mention I spoke no Nepali, so I hoped their English was passable. My fears were only increasing despite the preparation as the departure date approached.

Chapter 5- Heathrow

I was as physically as ready as ever to leave the UK for the distant and mysterious land of Nepal. A mix of excitement and fear spread through me as my family drove me to Heathrow Airport. This would be my introduction to backpacking, so with full and heavy, I said a teary-eyed farewell before entering the terminal. I was on my way and felt alone in the crowded airport. Whilst waiting at a cafe in the terminal, I noticed a tanned bearded man, with a worn backpack next to me. He was reading a book called Annapurna so I struck up the courage to ask if he had been to Nepal. With a friendly smile, the man nodded and said many times, he introduced himself as Simon and that he was a climbing guide and photographer. I couldn’t believe my luck that I had bumped into an experienced backpacker! He asked where I was heading to and spoke about his early days of trekking through the Himalayas before finding his passion for mountaineering.

Simon kindly offered advice on solo travelling such as connecting with fellow backpackers over cards and how to take amazing photographs even with a phone. I was in awe of his confidence to solo backpack across the world with only the minimal equipment needed. Simon characterised everything I dreamt of and not by his achievement of climbing famous peaks but by his values and open personality. We exchanged contact details and he wished me luck on my trek and I thanked him for his wisdom. At the boarding gate, I was much calmer compared to the nerves several hours earlier after the chat. It felt real once I stepped onto the plane and settled into the long-haul flight to Doha for my layover. No amount of films helped me settle into sleep, I think the nerves and excitement prevented it. The travel fatigue did make me less aware of my concerts before arriving in Kathmandu.

Chapter 6- Kathmandu

Eventually, the plane touched down in the Nepalese capital and I had to figure out the maze of immigration before entering the arrivals lounge. It was at this moment that I saw my name on a sign with a short and stocky man with a beaming smile there to greet me. He introduced himself as Dawa and immediately took my backpack from me. Dawa battled off the hordes of taxi drivers before we got in the awaiting vehicle. My biggest shock was the carnage of the roads with no lanes, scooters darting in between buses. It was clear that safety was very much optional. After what felt like 2 days of travel, we arrived at the hotel. I was desperate to sleep but had a quick briefing about the tour to prepare for my permits. Eventually, I crashed asleep, hoping for a good rest before the Annapurna Circuit began.

Stay tuned for Part 2 which continues the journey from Kathmandu to Chame, the start of the Annapurna Circuit! Please comment if you are enjoying the series and keep an eye out for tips and hidden links between the posts.