Annapurna Circuit Trek: Everything you need for an Epic Adventure

Nepal is famously home to the Himalayan mountains and offers endless adventures. One of the world’s best treks is the Annapurna Circuit located in central Nepal which really takes you on a journey over 2 weeks. Annapurna Circuit starts in green villages, continuing through alpine forests up to high-altitude snow-covered Thorong La Pass. Then drops into the Tibetan plateau-style landscape and ends with a sunrise hike up Poon Hill for an incredible panoramic. The trek was a life-changing experience where I immersed myself in the Nepalese culture and connected with many other backpackers.

This guide covers all the planning and preparation for the trek which seemed daunting when starting. It will include the lessons and tips I gained on the trail to make it even more enjoyable. This was my first trekking experience and time outside Europe… A big step into the unknown especially solo. I was keen to explore and challenge myself so why not in the highest mountain range in the world…. The Himalayas.

Why Nepal?

Nepal is world-renowned for its Himalayan giants which include 8 of the 14 8000meter peaks. Mountaineers, climbers and hikers worldwide flock to see and tackle the mystic Himalayan mountains. There is a massive tourism industry which makes planning very simple with hundreds of options for transport, tours and accommodation packages. Before 2022, I hadn’t travelled further afield than Europe so why not start with the highest mountain range on Earth? Nepal seemed easier to book a trip compared to Pakistan, Bhutan, India or China and much more affordable! The obvious trek was Everest Base Camp (EBC) but the higher prices and crowded trails did not appeal to me.

Why Annapurna?

After my friend talked about the Annapurna Base Camp trek in Nepal, I was intrigued by the Annapurna Region. Annapurna 1 (8091m) is one of the deadliest mountains with a 25% survival rate for summit attempts. Don’t worry this blog isn’t about climbing Annapurna! The Annapurna Circuit is normally a 2-week trek with a reputation for being one of the world’s best multi-day treks. The Annapurna Massif is in Central Nepal and close to Pokhara (a 6-hour drive from Kathmandu). The trek starts in the jungle up through alpine forests & lakes to arid villages and up into the snow-capped peaks. The route allows you to hike around Himalayan giants looming overhead and through colourful villages. I chose Circuit over Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) (also called Sanctuary) because of the challenge of Thorong La Pass compared to Base Camp at 4130m.

As well as seeing Annapurna 1, other highlights included seeing 2 other 8000m peaks in Manaslu (8163m) and Dhaulagiri (8167m). Most of the trek will pass under Annapurna 2 (7937m) up the Marsyangdi Valley seeing Annapurna 3 & 4 (7555m & 7525m), Gangapurna (7,455m) and the Chulu range. The crowning jewel of the trek is Thorong La Pass, the highest trekking pass in the world at 5416m which is higher than Antarctica and Oceania and nearly all of Europe (apart from Mount Elbrus and Kilimanjaro). It would be a physical and mental challenge to tackle the 150km and high altitudes. And the icing on the cake is the Poon Hill Sunrise which was one of my favourite moments. The view from Poon Hill will showcase Machhapuchhare (6993m) and Dhaulagiri and Annapurna 1 in full beauty.

Annapurna Circuit Map

The complete circuit starts in Besisahar and ends in Nayapul trekking for 260km/181mi but very few people do this route. Nowadays, the normal route starts around Jagat and ends around Jomson with some adding in Tatopani and Poon Hill (136km/84mi). Pokhara is a vibrant city along Fewa Lake that is bustling compared to the peaceful mountains. There is an airport with flights to Kathmandu which is the faster but expensive option compared to the chaotic bus journey. The Annapurna Circuit is anti-clockwise in direction due to the days needed to acclimatise before Thorong La Pass which is not advised ascending 1700m from Muktinath to the pass in a day.

Itinerary

This trip covered 15 days in Nepal with 2 additional days for flights. The 2 weeks felt like a month and the only changes I would make would be to include either Tilicho Lake or Ice Lake excursions. I can’t strongly recommend finding a tour that includes hiking to Poon Hill at sunrise from Ghorepani. It was one of the best moments of my life and so memorable I got the mountain panorama tattooed. For a more in-depth itinerary, check out Annapurna Circuit Trek – The Trip that Changed My Life (Post coming soon). Most of my research came from the Lonely Planet books about Nepal and Trekking in Nepal and the Cicerone Annapurna guide.

Day	Start	Finish	Time	Altitude
1	London	Kathmandu	14h	1400
2	Kathmandu	Syange	7-8h	1130
3	Syange	Dharapani	5-6h	1860
4	Dharapani	Chame	5-6h	2650
5	Chame	Upper Pisang	5-6h	3300
6	Upper Pisang	Manang	6-7h	3500
7	Manang	Acclimisation Day	–	3500
8	Manang	Yak Kharka	4-5h	4050
9	Yak Kharka	Thorong Pedi	3-4h	4500
10	Thorong Pedi	Thorong La Pass	3-4h	5416
10	Thorong La Pass	Muktinath	4-5h	3400
11	Muktinath	Tatopani	5-6h	1300
12	Tatopani	Ghorepani	7-8h	2850
13	Ghorepani	Poon Hill	1-2h	3210
13	Ghorepani	Pokhara	7-8h	850
14	Pokhara	Kathmandu	6-7h	1400
15	Kathmandu	London	14h	–

Planning

When to go and how long for?

The most popular months to visit are either side of the monsoon season in spring and autumn. March to May then October to early December are the busiest times on the Circuit being generally clear and dry. The springtime has middle temperatures, low chances of rain and great hiking conditions. The summer months are hotter but due to the monsoon, expect a lot of rain. There is lower visibility of the peaks due to the rain clouds and the paths will be muddy and slippery. Autumn is very similar to Spring conditions and was when I started my trek in early October. The post-monsoon season has very clear days which means blue skies and no haziness. The weather was perfect in October with no rain, clear skies to see all the mountain summits and pleasant temperatures.

Thorong La Pass is very challenging with the temperatures in prime seasons already being very cold (-20°C). The Winter conditions are another level of freezing plummeting to -30°C. Depending on the itinerary, it usually takes between 2 and 3 weeks to trek the Annapurna Circuit. I chose a 15-day tour package which had a drive from Muktinath (after the Pass) to Tatopani via Jomson to save a few days of trekking. Trekking at the end of the seasons will mean quieter trails and teahouses compared to the larger organised groups during peak months.

Transport – Navigating Chaos

The tricky part of going independent is getting the bus from the chaos of Kathmandu to Besisahar. The roads are slow with lots of traffic jams and no lanes. You will take a full day to escape Kathmandu and drive to the start of the trek (Besisahar) taking between 7-8hours. The transport is not expensive (£7) but it is odd having all the luggage on the roof and the driver doing delivery jobs as well. On the return from Muktinath, the treacherous and narrow roads through the mountain pass over deep river-filled gorges. as the bus tiptoes on the edge. Don’t be scared the drivers are very skilled and patient, just don’t look down!

Accommodation – Teahouse Trekking

The Annapurna Circuit is a Teahouse trek which means staying in small cosy tea houses along the trail. Teahouses are lodges with private rooms that accommodate trekkers along the route and offer food & drink. Nearly all the Teahouses had WiFi and Hot Water but not always hot showers. They are simple and don’t expect luxury, instead, you’ll have a warm and hearty meal, a cosy log fire lounge and a comfy bed for the night. Locals run the teahouses and serve as a place to recharge and meet fellow trekkers. Not everywhere has flush toilets and many have squat toilets instead which take some practice… The smell is a reminder of the developing world. As you venture to higher altitudes, the tea houses get more basic and any shops more expensive due to the cost of transporting goods on mules. There are no camping options on this trek for reference.

Guided or Solo?

It was a hard decision when planning to choose a travel company as there are tonnes of travel companies advertising attractive packages. There are so many variables to balance such as duration, excursions, food, transport, permits, airport transfer and obviously the price. I used TourRadar to research tour companies and read reviews for their services with the packages ranging from £500 to £2000. In the end, I chose Sherpa Expedition and Trekking because I preferred a Nepalese company, that had a competitive price (£832) with hundreds of 5* reviews. I highly recommend Sherpa Expedition and Trekking as the tour ran perfectly smoothly with my Guide, Dawa, and Ram (Boss) were very accommodating in the planning and brief beforehand, I will use them again to do the Everest 3 Passes Trek next time in Nepal.

While I met solo trekkers, as of 2023, it is compulsory to trek with a licensed guide in Nepal. Most people opted for a Sherpa to help with logistics, finding good teahouses, checking for altitude sickness and sharing local knowledge. The second question is whether to hire a porter to carry your pack. The Sherpa guide costs approximately double the hiring cost for a Porter and it was 50:50 whether tours had porters or not. It’s a balance of cost vs weight but I wanted the physical challenge of carrying my own pack.

Visa Process

The VISA application was relatively easy to do online before flying out but it is possible to sort it out at Tribhubhan International Airport (TIA) Kathmandu airport. The fees at arrival points: 15 days=$30.00 (£24), 30 days=$50.00 (£39) and 90 days=$125.00 (£98), with most people able to do the 15-day Visa. For the Visa on arrival, you will require 2 passport-sized photographs as well as American dollars in cash (Cards are possible too but cash is preferred). The online application can be done up to 15 days before arrival and the application receipt can be used to collect and pay for the Visa.

Trekking Permits

There are 2 important permits you need for the Annapurna Circuit which are TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) and Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit. TIMS is for all trekkers in Nepal and costs about £15 whereas the ACAP (£25) is specific to the Massif. There are checkpoints in villages around the route where it’s obligatory to check in. The permit costs get put back into preserving wildlife and the environment with the permits being available in Kathmandu & Pokhara.
Tip – You will need 4 passport photos for the permits and bring 2 for the Visa

Trekking Insurance

Trekking is normally a safe activity where you can adventure into the challenging landscapes but when going into high altitude ranges and with changeable weather, accidents are possible. Having the right level of cover is very important especially as the maximum altitude of 5416m is above normal travel insurance. The cost of a helicopter rescue or air ambulance can be around £5000 and will only be sent once valid insurance has been proven. All trekking companies require high-altitude trekking insurance (up to 7000m) as a requirement. There are numerous companies offering insurance and I choose TrueTraveller due to their competitive pricing and highly rated reviews.

Vaccinations

Nepal has no required vaccinations but the following are recommended: Hepatitis A, Typhoid and Tetanus. I got the Hepatitis A vaccine before going due to the higher risk of contaminated water (where I used Chlorine Dioxide purification tablets). And Typhoid for the same reason as water pollution. Check out the latest government-recommended vaccines and book them plenty in advance as availability can be limited.

Nepalese Culture & Language

Yes, the scenery is stunning but I equally remember the culture and religions which added a spiritual dimension to the trek. The Nepalese are very hospitable and friendly with a fantastic sense of humour, it’s easy to find peace and friendships. The 2 main religions are Hinduism and Buddhism with the Annapurna Region being heavily Buddhist-influenced. You’ll see prayer flags hung in the villages, and hike past Stupas plus it is worth visiting the monasteries. It is commonplace to see people begging and street selling which is a reminder of the poverty in Nepal and is pretty humbling. The Sherpa community was fascinating to learn about and get to know the Guides and Porters over tea and cards. The Guides all spoke adequate English however the porters spoke little; I only learnt a few phrases in Nepalese which the locals really appreciated.

How difficult is the Annapurna Circuit?

Annapurna Circuit is a moderately challenging long-distance trek. It is not a technically difficult trek compared to Dolomites Alta Via 4 with various options for how fast you want to complete the trek from 2 weeks to 3 weeks. And if you want to reduce your load then hiring a porter will mean only carrying a daypack on the trail. The harder bit is the acclimation to the altitude and reduced Oxygen. Having a general level of fitness will help reduce the chances and effects of Altitude Sickness. The hardest day was Thorong La Pass which has a 1000m climb starting at 4 am in freezing conditions and slowly trekking through snow to the pass before it gets too windy then a 1700m descent on scree into Muktinath.

Training Plan – Preparing for Annapurna

For Training, I did a few months of preparation with most weekends doing a long 15-20km training hike,.This was with a full 18kg backpack and as much climbing as possible around the Midlands in the UK. I would run and play sports so the cardio was there but I started a HITT workout plan a few times a week to improve upper body strength and core. Unless you live somewhere with higher altitudes nearby it’s difficult to train for this aspect.

The Magnificent Mountain Landscape

The main attraction is the stunning Himalayan mountains and the Annapurna massif contains massive snow-capped peaks towering above deep valleys. The trek allows you to experience different climates and terrains as you ascend to high altitude. It means you will need to pack for hot dry days to freezing snow hiking and all the changeable weather. The Annapurna trail is a joy to hike as you walk over Tibetan bridges, along dirt trails and up rocky paths before tackling the Thorong La Pass. There is a road leading up to Manang which makes it easier for Jeeps and tourism further up the Circuit. However, there were not too many days where you were on the gravel road.

Water Purification – Don’t get ill

Unfortunately, water contamination is an issue in Nepal and the last thing you want on a trip is to get ill due to polluted water. Hygiene and sanitation are not fantastic so it’s necessary to bring some form of water purification. Most Tea-houses allow you to use tap water but it will still need sterilising. A lot of people use Steripens or LifeStraws (around £80) but a cheaper alternative is to use Chlorine or Chlorine Dioxide tablets or droplets. Without a chemistry lesson, the difference is Chlorine is more dependent on PH levels whereas Chlorine Dioxide is more versatile and highly effective against a wider range of bacteria. My recommendation is Life Systems Chlorine Dioxide Tablets which treat 30L of water take 30mins to purify and are safe to drink. It’s easier than mixing droplets from my experience and weighs much less!
Tip– Add an electrolyte tablet into your purified water to hide any after-taste

Altitude Sickness – Hike High, Sleep Low

The hot conversation topic on the trek is the Altitude! The lack of Oxygen can affect anyone from marathon runners to casual hikers at any altitude above 2500m. It’s not something to be ignored so it’s best to listen to the Guides for signs and advice to best acclimatise. Symptoms include headaches, dizziness, fatigue and poor sleep at Extreme Alitudes. It’s recommended to drink 3-4 litres of water a day to help combat the symptoms as well as take acclimatisation days by climbing high and sleeping lower. It’s worth buying Diamox (medication) and hike slowly to not elevate your heart rate. I first noticed the Altitude at Yak Kharka around 4000m and started medication then with plenty of water and tea. Despite the terrible sleep and freezing conditions at Thorong Pedhi, the climb to Thorng La was fast thanks to the preparation.
Tip– Drink Ginger Tea and Garlic soup as these help reduce any symptoms

Currency – Show me the money

Nepal has a closed currency which means you can only exchange money within its border and are not allowed to take it out of the country. This means it’s not possible to pre-order or take Nepalese Rupee before arriving. The exchange rate for £1 is 171Rs and you’ll be shocked to see how far that gets you! After Besisahar, there are no cash machines on the trek before crossing Thorong La Pass so ensure you have plenty of cash for food, lodgings and drinks.

Trekking Kit List

This was my first trekking adventure which meant I spent months researching what kit to bring. And in particular, what is needed to tackle the Nepalese Himalayas? Even though picking the perfect season helps minimize poor weather, you never know in the mountains! So it’s wise to pack wet weather gear and have a layering system as it is pretty changeable! The mornings are crisp and cool before the sun enters the valley and warms you up. The main kit to purchase was the trekking backpack where I chose the Osprey Atmos AG 50 (review here). The rest of the kit was for cold weather such as a 4-season sleeping bag, merino wool base layers, winter gloves and medicines such as Diamox and Water purification tablets. All this kit was tested on the Annapurna Circuit and the Ultimate Trekking Kit List was created.

Budget

A 2-week trip was not a cheap holiday with the flights & tour making most the cost. However, spending money was limited to drinks (not included in the Tour package) and souvenirs. Nepal is a cheap country with prices much lower than other trekking destinations. A Dal Bhat meal and chai tea (the normal dinner) cost 250 rupees to 700 rupees (£1.50 – £4) for Dal and up to 100 rupees (£0.50) for tea. At Manang and above 3500m, the prices for food & drink increase up to 3 times (Dal Bhat costing almost 700Rs). And any Western-style food such as Burgers, Pizza, and Pasta will cost much more than Nepalese food. As mentioned the tour package covers food, accommodation and transport with the overall cost including flights being around £2100. Any kit rental will add to the overall cost whereas I brought all my gear beforehand (price not included for backpack etc).
Tip: Get all your cash before in Kathmandu as there are no ATMs/ Cash machines on the trail

Item	Cost (£)	Cost ($)
Tour (Sherpa Expeditions 15 Days)	£832	$1060
Flights (Qatar Airways)	£960	$1222
Tipping for Guide	£150	$190
Insurance (TrueTraveller)	£70	$89
VISA	£20	$25
Spending Money	£100	$127
Sub-Total	£2132	$2713

Annapurna Circuit Summary